Art Deco saints and maximalist mission centres.
Plus: angels over London
Hello, fellow pilgrim.
I have a confession. I’m falling in love with London.
Those are words I never thought I’d utter.
In fact, if you asked me ten years ago for the one place I’d never want to live, I’d have said London.
And here I am, eighteen months into life in the Big Smoke.
And loving this eclectic, expensive, imperfect city more and more each day.
Life’s strange.
And God’s a funny man.*
One of the cool things about London is that the fingerprints of Christendom are literally everywhere.
In the architecture, in the signage, in the place names…
I thought I’d share a couple of hidden gems that I’ve discovered.
*On one of my travels, I met a Catholic who used this phrase. It’s really stuck with me. I have no idea if it’s theologically sound, but I think there’s a pretty good case to be made for God’s sense of humour.
No, that’s not a pub
I can’t remember exactly what brought me to Rotherhithe. It’s not a part of London that I know well, or have any real connection to.
But it’s where I was, on a balmy day last summer.
I was stopped in my tracks by a bright red, blue and yellow pub.
Now, I’m a sucker for a maximalist building. There’s something about the audacity, the crazy colour combos, the ‘it shouldn’t work but it does’.
As I came closer, I noticed something strange. John 8:32 was inscribed on the exterior in flowing yellow cursive. In another section, there was a fragment of John 3:16.
Looking closer still, I spotted an ad in the window for a weekly Bible study. A sign offering counselling for ‘abuse victims, relationship problems’ and ‘substance abusers’. Another chunk of Scripture handwritten on a blackboard like a daily fish special.
I later learned that this wasn’t a pub any more, but the London home of Arise & Shine Evangelistic Association. A couple of American missionaries bought The Crystal Tavern in the 90s when it went out of business. It’s been the London Outreach Centre ever since.
I know nothing of the mission, but the building itself is a thing of beauty. Maximalism at its best.
Art Deco Nordic
London’s one of those places where you’ll miss a lot if you don’t look up.
This mosaic of St Olaf, by British sculptor Frank Dobson, is one example.
It proudly sits on the corner of St Olaf House. This striking Art Deco building brings a slice of retrofuturism to the bustle of Southwark. The Portland stone-clad former office is now used by London Bridge Hospital.
On the site, there used to be a church dedicated to the patron saint of Norway, who gave his name to the building.
The mosaic fits so well into the architecture. There’s something almost timeless about it. It somehow manages to evoke ancient kings and bold visions of the future, all in a few dashed lines and hits of gold.
Something for the journey
This angel, which joined a heavenly host lighting up London shoppers over the festive period.
I could rant about the commercialisation of Christmas. But I think these things are actually very beautiful.
I’ve appreciated the messages some of you have sent as I’ve relaunched this newsletter. Feel free to reply with any thoughts you have about the new format!
Big blessings.
— Sam Thorogood, Pilgrimage Design
(views expressed are all solely my own)